A giant, sparkling crystal rock on a sand-colored carpet conjured up a glamorous alien planet for Hermes’ champagne-sipping VIP guests.
Earthy hues like browns, reds and yellows, colors long associated with the heritage brand, were used at Saturday’s show to create Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s utilitarian, understated yet luxurious universe for spring.
Elsewhere, Ukraine’s top fashion designers used the platform of Paris Fashion Week to promote their war-torn industry.
Here are some of the highlights from the Spring Summer 2023 collections in Paris:
Hermes subtle strings
It was a minimalist version of Vanhee-Cybulski from the 80s.
The lone flashing crystal that flashed in color from the center of the runway established the key idea of the collection: simplicity is powerful.
As the show took off, the strange utilitarian features such as switches and the strange and perplexing box platform shoes that trampled everything: they were used with subtlety but aplomb.
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It brought a sporty, outer-space feel to the collection’s sleek, almost empty restraint, a mood that now defines the talented 44-year-old French designer’s repertoire.
Brown suede tunic minidresses sported lovely braided leather trims, shown jewel-free on a makeup-free model. While, exposed bellies laced with laces and toggles were otherwise kept simple and slim silhouettes.
Ukraine’s “good six” designers show a united front
Last season in Paris, the Ukrainian The designer fair took place just two days before the invasion of Russia amid stories of some artists fleeing the country so quickly with only their children and their collection in hand.
This season sees no improvement at home for the industry – it has been hit by rising financial strains as designers struggle to keep staff employed despite tight money, falling demand and supply chains violated.
A collective of these surviving designers is showing in Paris from Saturday until October 6.
Jen Sidary, head of the collective, said: “In my 30 years of working in the fashion industry, I have never witnessed the resilience of a country and its people when they started to focus to keep their businesses alive, days at war, after the bomb. shelters to design new collections amid constant air raid sirens.”
The six that make up the Paris Fashion Week event – Frolov, Kachorovska, Chereshnivska, Litkovska, My Sleeping Gypsy and Oliz – are shown unisex clothes, shoes and scarves. It is an attempt to keep their devastated industry alive and a form of resistance against the Russian bombs decimating their homeland.
Many of his colleagues back in Ukraine have had to repurpose their operations to help the war effort by relocating to the country, according to Sidary.
The courage of the Ukrainian fashion industry has attracted international attention.
USAID Project Manager Natalia Petrova spoke of the “remarkable resilience, commitment and awareness” of Ukrainian businesses since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.
“Disruptions in the domestic market caused by declining population demand and broken supply chains are pushing companies to explore export opportunities to diversify their sales,” he added.
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
Kink met art in Kronthaler’s typically quirky kitchen, a basic show where a fashion surprise awaits.
In his usual encyclopedic style, Kronthaler weaved an aesthetic of yesteryear: medieval and revival nobles and peasants – in their thick silhouettes. The guests almost felt like they were in the theater.
Juliette sleeves mixed with renaissance black drums, embellished collars and even a loose but elegant blue tuxedo that could have been worn by the Bard himself. Of course, Kronthaler anachronistically accessorized it with pale blue striped rugby socks. Adding to the creative cauldron were chunky Glam Rock boots and a Highland Kilt style with white trim on the male model’s nether regions, making it look like they might have received a frontal bite.
The opening image of Irina Shayk, often voted one of the most beautiful models in the world, in a shiny black bustier and silver hoop earrings offered with S&M is sure to be an image few will soon forget.
Elie Saab revisits the 60s
The late ’60s got a facelift on Saturday in a collection that included babydoll dressesminiskirts, psychedelia, crop tops and jabot collars, but never lost that floaty, contemporary Saab touch.
Saab’s first look at her Paris fashion show fused an angelic ’60s white crop top and maxi skirt with an ethnic look, thanks to a construction of interlocking motifs. This fusion of different eras continued throughout the program, which submitted 68 articles.
Lace details were a big theme and became the front of a pale tracksuit top. In an anachronism that defined this Saab spring aesthetic, it was worn alongside a sheer 90s tulle skirt. It had great swag and could have looked great at a music festival in that decade.
Flashes of Barbie pink and citrus contrasted with psychedelic stripes on the column silhouettes, sometimes making it feel like Saab was trying to throw too much into the mix. Ultimately, the collection was hard to pin down.
Akris is 100 years old
Art-infused Swiss fashion house Akris was in fine form on Saturday with a resplendent show full of trendy wearables.
It is sad but true that often in the Track of Paris the higher the level of art, the lower the level of portability, so designer Albert Kriemler’s spring show was a breath of fresh air.
Celebrating the brand’s 100th anniversary, the 74 designs have ironically never felt so young.
Pearlescent gowns with ruffled collars, large oversized gold buttons on coats and bright lace defined the aesthetic, which had a sort of East London kick.
Then came the art-inspired kitchen, a hallmark of the millennial home, with white graphic prints on tulle skirts or all over a boho black dress.
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